Montségur and the Cathars
An area of France known as Ariège was the Cathars’ main stronghold in the Middle Ages. The Cathars were Christians who believed in a form of reincarnation, rejected the doctrine of original sin, welcomed women into prominent roles and remained profoundly critical of the worldliness and corruption of the Catholic church. They advocated a simple and frugal life. The most devout, the parfaits (perfect ones), observed the rules covering sexual abstinence and poverty.
In 1208, the Papal Legate, Pierre de Castlenau, was killed near Arles. Pope Innocent III, as head of the Catholic church, waged a holy war against the Cathars, known as the Albigensian Crusade, commencing in 1209. As many as 20,000 faithful Cathars are thought to have been slaughtered in Béziers during that year and this started a series of tragic events spanning more than 30 years.
Storm clouds gathering over Montségur
At Montségur Castle in 1242, the Cathars suffered their greatest loss when they were attacked by a force of 10,000 royal troops. Following this, the castle fell after a nine-month siege. Eventually, on 1st March 1244, an attempt to escape the besieged castle failed. After a 15-day truce, in which the Cathars could choose to renounce their faith or perish at the stake, more than 220 of the Cathars were burnt to death ‘en mass’ and the castle was destroyed.
The ruins of Montségur Castle are perched high on a pog (rock in the local Occitan language) at just over 1200m above sea-level and about 30km East of the town of Foix. Montségur has also been cited as a possible location of the Holy Grail, which legend says was smuggled out of the castle in the days before the final battle.
A visit to Montségur had been on my radar for many years. I have read some very compelling stories about this area of France and developed a fascination for the history of the Cathars. I highly recommend the novel ‘Labyrinth’ by Kate Mosse and, also, her subsequent books based in this area of France.
Montségur Castle sitting on the pog
On the morning we visited, the storm clouds were gathering over the site, which really provided the right atmosphere for visiting such a somber landmark. We stopped on the side of the road to take in the ominous view of the ruins high atop the rock.
C’est moi walking towards the memorial that commemorates the Cathars burnt here in 1244
After parking the car, we took the path across the field, passing a memorial that commemorates the Cathars who were burnt alive in 1244. The path winds up the side of the rock and there is a tiny shelter. Here, we purchased tickets to the castle ruins for a small fee and were provided with a small brochure about the site, in English.
Pausing for a view along the pathway to the castle
We began hiking up the steep and rugged path, sometimes slippery, as the rain had started and clambered between boulders. It took about 30 minutes to reach the castle ruins. Ominous clouds, thunder and lightening provided a very gloomy atmosphere. At times, we were completely alone, allowing us to imagine how it would have been to be trapped, without food, to make a decision between your religious belief and your life.
Outside of the imposing walls of Montségur Castle
Inside the walls of Montségur Castle
C’est moi inside the castle walls
In the small village of Montségur, which lies beneath the castle, there is a museum containing objects of defense: arrows, spearheads and cannonballs, as well as items of everyday life: various tools, coins, ceramics, garment ornaments, dice and keys. For some more information of Montségur, click on these websites:
View to the village below the castle
The history of the Cathars is fascinating. If you would like more information, please click on the link below:
Views across the surrounding area
The Ariège is such an interesting area to visit. The rugged beauty of the Pyrenees mountains provides a stunning backdrop. All sorts of outdoor pursuits are possible year-round. There are plenty of historical sites, picturesque villages and bastide and spa towns, all of which are dotted throughout this area. Here are a few ideas for a visit:
*La grotte de Niaux – prehistoric site at Tarascon-sur-Ariège
*Foix - the castle, whose foundations date back to the early tenth century
*Mirepoix – a bastide town (fortified ‘new’ town built in the 13th and 14th centuries)
*Ax-Les-Thermes - thermal baths
The beautiful landscape of the Ariège
We stayed at the family operated ‘Hotel le Castrum’ in Villeneuve-d’Olmes, close to Lavelanet, which is a nice little town to use as base in this area. It has plenty of shops and other amenities.
To this day, my heart still bleeds for the Cathars!
