A Day in the life of la belle vie in Burgundy by Lindy Viandier
What I love most about my French Views website and Instagram, is the wonderful people I have connected with either in person or virtually. Lindy Viandier, lives in Paris and is currently renovating a 300-year-old house in Burgundy with her husband, Monsieur V. I read Lindy’s first book, ‘Damson Skies and Dragonflies’ a couple of years ago and she has recently published her second book ‘Mellow Mists and Walnut Wine’ (the book cover above), which is just as delightful. These are not your typical French holiday house renovation books. Lindy’s books are a gentle sensory journey through the seasons. With colourful characters, some of whom are cats and accompanied by tasty recipes. Lindy has a gift with words and her books have transported me to rural Burgundy. Thank you, Lindy, for writing this this post and sharing your photos. Settle back and enjoy a day in the life of la belle vie in Burgundy.
Dawn light filters through the trees in the small woods to the east. The melodic songs of the night birds are replaced by the urgent signalling of crows and magpies. Boisterous sparrows make their presence known under the eaves of the roof. And from afar the faint call of a cuckoo announces the arrival of summer.
I take my coffee onto the small, walled terrace, its aroma is no match for the fragrance of ancient roses and honeysuckle that cling to the walls. The resident frogs in the pond reach a crescendo of trills, croaks and ribbits, drowning out the birds.
Shutters are opened by unseen hands. A tractor trundles by, laden with bales of hay. Our neighbour, Jacques, cycles past on his way to the boulangerie to buy his morning baguette. I wave, coffee cup in hand – an invitation to stop by on his way back. The hamlet is waking…
Welcome to the world of Les Libellules, our 300-year-old house in the Burgundy countryside, Les Libellules – The Dragonflies. So named by me because of the numerous and varied beauties that share the pond with the frogs and other species, including endangered crested newts.
My husband, affectionately known as Monsieur V, is already working in the potager (vegetable garden) before the hot Burgundian sun reaches its full force.
Having a potager was one of the main motivations for us buying a house in the country, as, having lived in a third-floor apartment the Parisien region for ten years, we yearned for somewhere we could eat outside, hang washing to dry and grow our own fruit and veg.
I’m a fairly good cook, and the idea of creating dishes with our home-grown produce was a dream of mine. Although we’re not self-sufficient, we have enough fruit and vegetables to satisfy my dream all year round.
People tend to eat seasonally here in the country, and I would be frowned upon by my husband if I bought supermarkets tomatoes in winter. But as it’s summer, the season of plenty, everything is growing in abundance. Courgettes and cucumbers are appearing literally overnight. Lettuces are flourishing, and tomatoes ripening.
I’m out with a basket collecting strawberries, raspberries and black currants to make a fruit salad for dessert for this evening.
Les Libellules is in the Côte d’Or region of Burgundy and close to both the route des vins (wine route) and the Morvan National Park and lakes, an area rich in culture, history and nature.
A friend thought we must have researched the area very well before buying here. In fact, we bought the house on a whim. Blinded to the full extent of her dilapidation by a fairy tale tower. The tower is a pigeonnier. A pigeonnier, for those who don’t know, is a circular loft that was used to keep pigeons to eat in times of hardship. We are in the process of making our pigeonnier into a library, but are leaving some of the little chambers visible behind a glass panel.
We’re trying to preserve as many elements of the past as we can. But even parts that we do modernise, will become part of the past to future generations. There are so many layers in time here, we feel that we’re adding too, not taking from the history of the house. The important thing is not to let your voice drown out those from your past.
Jacques has returned with his bread and installed himself on the terrace. He is quite a local historian. It is he who told us about the house having once been a halt for the mail coach from Paris to Lyon, and later being used as a small primary school. While cleaning on top of a cupboard, I found a box of stubby red pencils whose ends had been gnawed at by studious little teeth. Jacques tells me that I am following in a good tradition. Fernand Lefèbvre, a former occupant, would sit on this terrace and invite passers-by for a coffee or aperitif as I do.
This morning, Monsieur V and I are going to the vibrant market in Saulieu, the nearest town to Les Libellules. As we have our own fruit and vegetables, we are shopping for plants , local honey, cheese and olives. Shopping in the market is one of the joys of living in France. People not only go for their supplies, but also to catch up with friends and neighbours, standing chatting in small groups, or in this case sitting and chatting over a glass of wine from the pop-up wine bar.
After the market, we take the long way home and visit a local lake, Lac Chamboux. The shady paths at the water’s edge, are an ideal place to be out of doors in summer time.
But as midday approaches, the heat of the sun pierces the canopy of trees and we head back to cool interior of Les Libelulles and her 40cm thick stone walls and shutters, to continue with some renovation work, then take a siesta.
As the sun descends behind a screen of poplars in the west, the terrace, bathed in the mellow glow of early evening, is now cooler. Monsieur V waters the potager, and the aroma of damp earth and spicy tomatoes prickles my nose.
I prepare a dish of warm courgettes and avocado to serve with grilled chicken. A tractor trundles by, pulling a trailer of creamy-white Charolais cows to their pasture for the night. Jacques cycles past on his way back from the boulangerie with his evening baguette. He calls out ‘bonne soirée’ (have a good evening).
It's almost the end of another day at Les Libellules. All that is left for us to do is to take an aperitif on the terrace, and toast to how blessed we are to have found this magical place.
If you would like to read more about life at Les Libellules, including Lindy’s delicious recipes, here are the links to purchase Lindy’s books and follow her on Instagram.
https://bit.ly/Damson-Skies
https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/21812577.Lindy_Viandier
Merci beaucoup Lindy for sharing your day in the beautiful Burgundian countryside. À bientôt!